Better Than Clean

Alcohol

Always treat these as soon as possible. Often stains are almost colorless at first, but turn brown on standing, washing and ironing. Fresh stains can be removed by sponging several times with warm water. If there is any mark left, pour glycerin on the dampened stain, rub lightly between the hands and leave for half an hour. Rinse in warm water.

More stubborn stains may be sponged on dry fabric with equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and ammonia (test on colors first) or laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover). Rinse well in warm water. If any stain is left on white material, a laundry bleach may be used. Choose and use your bleach according to instructions given earlier.

Baby Oil

Rub some dishwash liquid into the stain, leave for 10-15 minutes, then hot wash (60-65°C) using your normal laundry detergent. If any stain remains, repeat the process. For un-washable fabrics or articles, see under Butter.

Blood

* If fresh, sponge with cool salted water (1tsp : 600 ml water) and rinse with clear water.

Should stain persist, soak in a diaper wash/sanitizer from the supermarket that contains sodium percarbonate - read the diaper wash/sanitizer label for the chemical make-up of the product (may state sodium carbonate peroxohydrate or oxygenated bleach). Sodium percarbonate is derived from a manufacturing process of concentrated solutions of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide (sodium carbonate peroxohydrate) therefore you could try using the hydrogen peroxide suggestion first. Or you can try any of the following suggestions, and they are in no particular order...

o Dilute hydrogen peroxide (1 part : 9 parts water). Purchase the strongest solution available from a pharmacy - usually "20 Volume". Rinse well.

o Sponge with a 10% solution of Oxalic Acid, warmed to about 45°C. Rinse well.

o Sponge with dilute ammonia (1 Tsp. : 600 ml). Rinse well.

o For thick or un-washable articles, e.g. mattresses, carpets, sprinkle with pepsin powder (from your pharmacy), or spread with a thick paste of raw starch and water, leave to dry, then brush off. Repeat if necessary.

Candle Wax

Candle wax and chewing gum can be effectively removed by placing the object that has been stained into a freezer until the staining agent is quite hard, and brittle, then the material can be literally shattered off the object that has been stained.

...then treat any residue as follows: place the stain between clean, white blotters and press with a warm iron, changing the blotter as it becomes soiled. Then sponge with dry cleaning fluid or a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover).

In the case of colored wax there may still be a color stain. Sponge with a liquid made by adding ½ c of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) to ½ c water.

Chewing Gum

Scrape away as much as possible first. Rubbing the stain with ice will harden the gum and make this easier, especially on rugs and other heavy materials. Refer further under Candle Wax

If the material is washable, soak in kerosene and wash in hot soapy water. For un-washable articles, use dry cleaning fluid. Several applications may be necessary.

Chocolate & Cocoa

First scrape off as much as possible with a dull knife. Hot soapy water will then remove fresh stains from washable articles. If a brown stain remains, soak in a solution of a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate followed by a good rinse in warm water.

For unwashable materials, sponge with dry cleaning fluid. Allow to dry. Repeat as necessary with a clean portion of pad beneath. If any mark remains, sponge with equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia (test on colors first). Follow with warm water. A spray-on dry cleaner may be used.

Coffee & Tea

Remove fresh stains from cotton and linen materials by first rinsing in warm water then pouring boiling water from a height of 2 - 3 feet onto the stain. Follow by washing in soapy water. If a trace remains, bleach in the sun, or with a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate. Tea stains on cottons and linens can also be removed by soaking in borax and water (1 Tbsp. borax in 1 c of warm water).

Stains on wool and silk or any fabric may be sponged with lukewarm water, then apply glycerin, rubbing lightly between the hands. Let stand for half an hour. Rinse with warm water. If a grease spot remains from cream, sponge with dry cleaning fluid.

Correction Fluid

Purchase some Spray & Wipe from your supermarket, and use concentrated on the stain. Most Spray & Wipe formula’s contain a solvent which will dissolve the liquid paper. OR Try a little gasoline on the stain, with some good absorbent paper or old cloth behind it. Then use some dishwash liquid or a good quality laundry liquid to wash out the gasoline. OR Purchase some xylene, or toluene, these are some of the solvents used in making the stuff. Use as if using the gasoline. These are stocked by gasoline companies and you may be able to request a small sample. Always test an inconspicuous piece of material before proceeding.

Crayons

Treat as for Candle wax. If on wallpaper, after scraping cover with blotting or brown paper, iron with warm iron, shifting paper repeatedly. Final traces may be covered with a paste of cornflour and cleaning fluid. Allow to dry, brush off and repeat if necessary.

Deodorants & Antiperspirants

Sponge dry fabric stain thoroughly with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) and warm water. Rinse. If some stain remains, use a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate. Antiperspirants may cause fabric damage and color damage in some dyes. Color may be restored by sponging with ammonia. Dilute ammonia with an equal volume of water for use on wool or silk. Rinse well.

Dyes & Running Colors

These are difficult to remove and no one treatment is successful in all cases. Immediate copious rinsing in tepid water, forcing the water through the stain, is sometimes effective.

Washing and sunning will gradually bring results in some cases. Equal parts of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and ammonia may also succeed. White fabrics may be bleached. Use a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate for linens and untreated cottons, hydrogen peroxide for silk, wool and delicate fabrics.

Dye - Setting

Common household salt can be used to "Set Dyes" at a rate of quarter to half a cup per wash tub load. Leave to soak half an hour, rinse, then hang to dry. Salt is a common additive to Laundry Powder formulations. Among it's many uses, salt minimizes the risk of "running dyes" when laundering garments.

Egg

Scrape away as much as possible. Sponge with lukewarm water. Never use hot water, as heat hardens the stain. If this does not succeed, spread the stain with a paste of cream of tartar and water, adding a crushed aspirin to the paste. Leave for 20 - 30 minutes. Rinse well in warm water. OR use a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium per carbonate.

Fruit Juices & Berries

Fresh stains are easy to remove, but once dry, they are very obstinate. Treat with cool water first and follow up, if necessary, by soaking in a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium per carbonate. Rinse.

White cottons and linens may be stretched over a basin and boiling water poured through from a height. Any remaining stain may be removed with chlorinated laundry bleach.

Colored fabrics or washable silk, etc., may be soaked in a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium per carbonate or a warm borax solution (1 Tbsp. : 1 c water), or covered with a paste of cream of tartar and warm water. Leave half and hour or until stain goes, then rinse well.

For persistent stains apply equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and ammonia. Rinse well after treatment. This method is safe for all fabrics, except triacetate (e.g. Tricel). Dilute mixture with an equal quantity of water for fabrics with fugitive dyes. Old stains may be softened in glycerin before treatment. Damp stain, apply glycerin, leave 1 - 2 hours, then add a few drops of vinegar, leave 5 - 10 minutes and rinse well.

Glues, Gums & Cellulose Adhesives

Soaking in cool water will remove water-soluble glues, e.g. casein glue. For waterproof varieties, use spirit solvent, e.g. methylated spirits (wood alcohol) or amyl acetate (test before using on synthetic fabrics). Artificial Nail glue can be removed used acetone (test on an inconspicuous area first). Acetone evaporates quickly, so hold a wad of absorbent paper or soft cloth against the glue, and soak the acetate through from the other side. (The glue soaks on to the wad of absorbent)

Grass & Other Garden Foliage

Soak in a solution of a chlorinated laundry bleach or a diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium per carbonate. OR sponge with methylated spirits (wood alcohol). Remove this with warm water and where possible wash the article using Laundry powder or Liquid.

Hand Lotion Stains

Motsenbocker's Lift Off #2 is a petroleum based, commercially and industrially proven formulation that can effectively remove such items as: oil stains, adhesives, bumper stickers, chewing gum, pencil marks, pitch/sap, contact paper, candle wax, creosote, crayons, price stickers, tar, lipstick, shoe polish, fresh oil based paint and petroleum based silicone. It can be used on carpets, fabrics, hardwood floors, metal, Formica, exhaust fans, vinyl, plastic, barbecues, tools, tile and chains. The product works better than existing products; it works in the same reactionary time; it is safe on all surfaces (except styrene plastics); it costs the same or less than other products and it is safe for the user.

Or

1. Sponge with a small amount of dry cleaning solvent
2. Blot
3. Mix one teaspoon of a mild pH balanced detergent (a mild non alkaline non bleaching detergent) with a cup of lukewarm water
4. Blot
5. Sponge with clean water
6. Blot

Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent.

Ice Cream, Milk & Cream

For washable materials, first sponge with lukewarm water, then wash as usual. If the material is not washable, sponge with dry cleaning fluid then with cold water.

Indelible Pencil

Do not use water as this spreads the stain. Sponge over a pad of soft cloth, using equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia (test co loured fabrics first). Should the colors run, try methylated spirits (wood alcohol) alone. Rinse or sponge with warm water.

Ink

Because INKS differ in composition it is impossible to find removers that are equally effective for all types of ink spots. The following is a range of suggestions from which you can choose. The best treatment we have discovered is using a D'limonene based product. (read our notes on each product HERE), however, General Instructions using D'Limonene are: Dry the stained area. Mix together 3 parts dishwash liquid with 1 part of D'limonene. Soak the stained area in this solution for 10-15 minutes. After the soak time, rinse in water as hot as is suitable for the fabric, then wash as usual, but preferably with a Laundry Liquid. This treatment may require repeating. Other treatments you can try include the following...

Ballpoint Pen Ink: First, saturate material with an alcohol-based hair spray (this seems to be a very popular method). The alcohol content in the hair spray will break up the ink. Be sure to place an absorbent paper towel or rag under the stain to catch the excess. You then need to blot the stain with a rag. Repeat the process until the stain is removed, then launder as usual. A word of caution before trying this method: some fabrics may be damaged by the hair spray solution. If in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area first, or consult with a professional dry cleaner.

Water Based Inks: Try an all-purpose cleaner instead of hair spray. Be sure to place an absorbent paper towel or rag under the stain to catch the excess. You then need to blot the stain with a rag. Repeat the process until the stain is removed, then launder as usual. A word of caution before trying this method: some fabrics may be damaged by the cleaning solution. If in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area first, or consult with a professional dry cleaner.

NOTE: If the stain is still wet, apply an absorbent - french chalk, talcum powder, starch or salt - to absorb excess ink and stop it from spreading. Continue this treatment, removing the discolored powder and applying fresh, until there no further change is achieved. Alternatively, take up excess ink with blotting paper, pressing fresh patches of blotter into the stain until it no longer discolors. Then treat as required.

These suggestions are also suitable for dried writing ink, ball point pen, or marking ink. Soak the stain in "sour" milk - this is an old fashioned, but effective method. Fresh milk also works, but sour milk is faster. Sponge or dip the stain in equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia (test on colored fabrics first). Rinse in warm water. Rinse again in warm water containing a little ammonia, then finally in fresh water. Sponge with pure Dettol. If not effective, try iso-propyl alcohol or dry cleaning fluid

Lipstick & Other Cosmetics

e.g. eyeshadow, mascara, blusher - washing with your usual laundry product may remove these stains. Pre treat the dry fabric stain with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover). On an un-washable fabric, first try dry cleaning fluid.

If stains are stubborn, sponge with equal quantities of methylated spirits (wood alcohol) and household ammonia. (Test on colored fabrics first). If color fades, reduce ammonia by half and test again. Rinse in warm water, or wash if possible.

Medicines

Try to find out from doctor or chemist what the medicine contains, as this will aid in selecting the correct treatment: e.g. iron tonics - treat as for iron rust: medicines containing alcohol, rinse with methylated spirits (wood alcohol), etc.

Where contents cannot be discovered proceed as for "Unknown Stain".

Mildew

Treat as soon as discovered, before the mold has time to weaken the cloth. Slight, fresh stains can often be removed by washing with your usual laundry product and drying in the sun. Otherwise, try these methods in turn, proceeding carefully with colored articles:

a] Chlorinated laundry bleaches may be used for white untreated cottons and linens, according to general instructions given by the manufacturer. Rinse thoroughly before washing.

b] Vinegar added to the final rinse will help remove any traces of smell remaining from the bleach.

c] A diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium per carbonate is safe on all white and colored fabrics.

Motor Grease & Heavy Motor Oil

Scrape away as much as possible. For washable materials, rub lard or Vaseline into stain or treat dry fabric with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover). Wash in a quality Laundry powder or Liquid. On un-washable materials, such stains are difficult. Treat repeatedly with dry cleaning fluid, continuously changing the pad and the sponging cloth. Finish with a sponging of lukewarm water and synthetic detergent, then warm water to rinse. If contaminated with metal particles, an iron stain my remain. Treat as for Iron Rust.

Mud

Allow to dry, then brushing off. Any remaining stain may be removed by washing or sponging with your usual laundry powder or liquid or if greasy dirt, pre-treat dry fabric with a laundry pre-soak (spot stain remover) or use a grease solvent, e.g. dry cleaning fluid.

Mustard

Scrape any excess mustard from the fabric, ensuring you don't spread the stain any further. Dry the mustard-stained area. Mix together 3 parts dishwash liquid with 1 part of a D'Limonene based product (read our notes on each product at this link). Soak the stained area in this solution for 10-15 minutes. NOTE: On occasion the mustard stain will turn very dark, but DON'T PANIC - it will wash out! After the soak time, rinse in water as hot as is suitable for the fabric, then wash as usual, but preferably with a Laundry Liquid. This treatment may require repeating.

Nail Polish

Apply acetone or amyl acetate (polish removers), but take care with synthetic fibers, as both of these dissolve some type of rayons. Wash or sponge with your usual laundry product after treatment.

Remove any remaining color with a bleach, using a chlorinated laundry bleach for white cottons and linens. A diaper wash/sanitizer container sodium percarbonate for colors, and hydrogen peroxide for wool and silks.

Perspiration Stains

New perspiration stains are normally acid and may be removed by washing. If the dye is affected, hold the mark in fumes from an open ammonia bottle.

Older perspiration stains turn alkaline and sponging with 1 Tbsp. vinegar in ½ c water will often restore the color. This treatment also helps to remove perspiration odors.

To remove perspiration stains from un-washable garments or for any stubborn marks, apply a paste of 1 Tbsp. cream of tartar, 3 crushed aspirins and warm water. Leave for 20 minutes. Rinse well in warm water. Repeat if necessary. Follow this with vinegar and water to restore the color if necessary.

Rust

Any of the methods given below are safe for white fabrics, but test on colored fabrics before use.

Lemon Juice - suitable for light stains on delicate fabrics. Spread stain over a bowl of boiling water and sprinkle with lemon juice. After a few minutes, rinse well and repeat if necessary.

Lemon Juice and Salt - sprinkle stain with salt, rub with lemon juice and place in sunlight. Keep moist with lemon juice till stain goes. Rinse well.

Cream of Tartar - for extensive staining, boil in a liquid made from 4 tsp. cream of tartar in 600 ml water. Rinse well OR if less extensive, dampen stain, spread with cream of tartar, hold in steam from boiling kettle. Rinse immediately stain goes. Do not use on fabrics that cannot be washed in hot water.

Water Spots

Some silks, rayons and wools are spotted by water. To remove such spots, hold in the steam from a rapidly boiling kettle. It is wise to cover the spout with butter muslin first to prevent any droplets of water reaching the fabric. Allow the fabric to become damp, but not wet. Shake and press while still slightly damp, rubbing, if possible, with a piece of the same or a similar material, or with fingernail or spoon.

Water stains on carpets become brown because of impurities from backing or under-felt. Mop up spills, wipe with cool water, cover with pad of blotting paper, tissues or absorbent cloth. Weight down with books, etc., and dry quickly with the aid of fan heaters, vacuum exhaust, etc. This causes stain to wick through to absorbent material. Repeat if required.

Wine

* Red Wine? Straight away pour White Wine on the affected area and soak up. Then wash in cold water and ammonia.

White Wine? Wash in cold water and ammonia. If unsuccessful, follow other treatments under Alcoholic Beverages.

* Treat promptly

* Try mild measures first

* Rinse thoroughly

Clothing Care and Fiber Content Labels

You know if a fabric is washable by reading the care label. If the label has warnings such as "do not use chlorine bleach," then you cannot safely use liquid chlorine bleach in stain removal.

Clothing manufacturers are required to tell you the recommended care procedure on a "permanent care label." These labels often appear at the neckline of garments, but sometimes they are in a side seam. These labels tell if the manufacturer recommends home laundering or dry cleaning for routine care of the clothing. A recommendation for dry cleaning may relate to the component parts of the garment such as interfacings and trim, rather than to the basic fiber content of the garment. Tailored clothes of wool are often "dry-clean only" while wool sweaters are often "hand washable."

Hang tags or other labels on clothing tell the fiber content. If you understand fiber characteristics, this information can help you decide about the best stain removal procedure. For example, wool or silk can be severely damaged by liquid chlorine bleach, so this bleach should be avoided. Hang tags may also tell about fiber finishes such as soil release or durable press that are not visible on clothing but can make stain removal easier or more difficult. For example, oily stains bond more firmly with durable press fabrics than with untreated fabrics, making removal more difficult.

Fabrics Labeled "Dry-clean Only"

The procedures described here do not apply to garments labeled dry-clean only. Clothing labeled "dry-clean" or "professionally dry-clean" should be taken to the cleaners promptly. The fiber content of the clothing and the type of stain should be identified for the cleaner. Even professional cleaners cannot remove all stains. The cleaner will usually warn you if the stain cannot be removed, but sometimes this is difficult to predict. Dye stains on colored fabrics are an example of stains that may not be completely removed.

A Note about Modern Fabrics

Synthetic fibers such as acrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, and blends of these fibers or cottons with permanent-press finishes are tough and durable , but have a special attraction for oil stains. Oil stains should be removed promptly. If oil stains get dryer dried or ironed into fabrics containing these fibers or finishes, removal may be extremely difficult, if not impossible. These oil stains show most on plain medium colors such as light blue or khaki. On the other hand, if treated quickly, oil stains usually can be easily removed.

Synthetic fiber fabrics are also heat sensitive. These fabrics shrink and melt in high temperatures. They can get more-or-less "permanent" wrinkles in the spin-cycle of a washing machine set for a hot-water wash, or from an over-crowded dryer that has run too long. Steam pressing can sometimes remove heat-set wrinkles, but the melting temperature of the fibers is so close to the temperature needed to iron out wrinkles that pressing is tedious and must be done carefully to avoid melting and creating holes. The restored garment may fit differently because of the heat shrinkage.

It is easy to prevent wrinkling in washable blends and permanent press clothes:

* avoid overloading the washer; clothes should move freely,

* be sure the washer is set for "warm" not "hot" water temperature or for the "permanent press" cycle,

* dry on permanent press setting,

* remove from dryer at end of cycle; do not over-dry,

* hang on hanger; temporary wrinkles generally "relax" or fall out in a few hours.

Fabrics containing -vinyl or natural rubber will be damaged by most oil solvents. Oil solvents tend to remove the plasticizers in vinyl film fabrics, making them stiff.

Olefins may be damaged by per chloroethylene solvent, but are resistant to trichloroethylene and fluorocarbon dry cleaning solvents.

Acetate fabrics will dissolve in fingernail polish remover (acetone). Triacetate and modacrylic fabrics can be damaged by acetone or paint thinners.

Silk, wool, and other hair fibers, such as camel or cashmere, will dissolve in fresh liquid chlorine bleach. Dilute solutions of liquid chlorine bleach will cause permanent yellowing and stiffening of wool fibers and usually cause weakening and color loss in silk.

Cellulose fibers, such as cotton, linen, rayon, and ramie, will be weakened by repeated exposure to dilute solutions of liquid chlorine bleach, but bleaches can be safely used on cellulose fibers for purposes of stain removal. Undiluted bleach can weaken fabrics so that they tear or wear out more quickly.

Garments with Contrasting Colors or Trim

Many garments are designed with dark fabrics and white trim or white fabrics and bright colored trim such as red piping. When these fabrics are labeled washable, people often complain that the colors have "run." The white shirt becomes streaked with pink from the red trim.

Sometimes this problem can be resolved by rewashing the garment in a heavy-duty detergent with warm or hot water. The excess dye that was not permanently in the trim is not likely to be very firmly deposited in its new location either, and sometimes a simple repeat washing will rinse it away. Sometimes bleaching will help, but often the bleach will change the color of the trim and further change the appearance of the garment.

Since there are no regulations about color-fastness labeling, there is little that consumers can do when they have problems with color-fastness except complain to the manufacturer or retailer who sold the goods. As long as care labeling procedures have been carefully followed, most reputable businesses will respond to your complaint in a positive way.

Although it may cramp your style, a way to avoid these problems is to not buy clothing with extreme color contrasts.

Removing Stains from Washable Fabrics: General Procedures

The following general procedures apply to nearly all stains. Fresh stains are much easier to remove than old ones, so take care of stains promptly.

1. Blot up any excess liquid with a clean white cloth, paper, or other towels. Remove excess solids by gentle scraping or chipping with a dull knife or metal spatula. With some solids such as heavy amounts of surface mud removal may be easier after the stain has dried. Excess can be brushed off before the clothing is submerged for washing.

2. Avoid rubbing the stained area with a linty terry towel or a dark-colored cloth. You may complicate the problem.

3. Never rub a fresh stain with bar soap. Soap sets many stains.

4. Decide if the fabric is washable or dry cleanable. If dry cleanable, take to the cleaners as soon as possible (within 24 to 48 hours).

5. Do not try to treat suede, leather, or fur. Professional cleaners are needed for these items, and even some professionals do not offer this service.

6. Avoid using hot water on stains of unknown origin. Hot water can set protein stains such as milk, egg, or blood.

7. Test stain removal agents on a seam or hidden area of the garment to be sure it does not affect the color or finish of the fabric before starting on the stain.

8. Avoid excessive rubbing unless fabric is tough and durable. Rubbing can spread the stain and damage the fiber, finish, or color.

9. Do not iron or press stained fabrics. Heat will set most stains.

10. Check laundry for stains before washing. Many stains need pretreatment.

11. Inspect wet laundry before drying to be sure stain has been removed. If a stain is still evident, do not dryer dry. The heat of drying will tend to make the stain more permanent.

12. Wash heavily soiled items separately. During laundering soil is broken into smaller particles and can be redeposited on cleaner clothing if insufficient detergent is used, water temperature is too,low, washing time too long, or washer is overloaded with too many clothes.

Spot Treatment Technique (Sponging) for Apparel Fabrics

A spot treatment confines the stain to a small area and keeps it from spreading. This method is sometimes called "sponging." For spot treatment you need a supply of absorbent material such as, clean rags or paper towels, and a dry cleaning solvent, spot remover, or aerosol pretreatment spray.

Follow these steps:

1. Pad the working surface with clean rags or paper towels that can be stained as you work.

2. Place the stained area or spot on the garment face-down over the padded surface.

3. Dampen a small white cloth with solvent.

4. Use the dampened cloth to pat the stain from the wrong side. Feather the edges of the stain working from the outside toward the center to keep the stained area from getting larger.

5. As the stain transfers to the absorbent material beneath, move it to a different place on the absorbent material so the stain has a clean place to exit into.

6. Repeat this procedure until all traces of stain are gone. Launder to remove any ring that might be left by the solvent.

Chemical Solvents and Supplies

Supplies needed for stain removal can usually be found in grocery, drug, general merchandise, or paint stores.

Many commercially available products have proprietary formulas that are protected by patent rights and not available to the public. Ingredients listed on labels for safety purposes can help you decide if the product will be useful for the stain removal task- you have to do. There is no miracle product that will remove all stains.

Detergents

* Heavy-duty liquid detergents (Era, Fab, Grease Relief, Tide, Wisk)

* Light-duty liquid detergents (Delicare, Ivory, Lux,Woolite)

* Powdered detergents (Amway, Cheer, Dash, Oxydol, Sears, Tide)

Bleaches

* Hydrogen peroxide

* Powdered all-fabric bleaches (sodium perborate)(Biz, Borateem, Clorox 2; Purex, Snowy)

* Liquid all-fabric bleaches (Snowy, Vivid)

* Liquid chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite)(Clorox, Hi-lex, Purex)

* Liquid chlorine bleaches have a limited shelf-life. If your bleach is more than six months old and has no effect on stains, it may need to be replaced with fresh bleach.

* To test for colorfastness to liquid chlorine bleaches, mix I tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minutes, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powdered bleach packages have directions for doing colorfastness tests.

Pretreatment Products

* Aerosol sprays-petroleum-based solvent (Clorox, Shout, Spray 'n Wash)

* Pump-type sprays-- detergent based (Clorox, Shout, Spray 'n Wash)

Absorbent Materials

* Clean white cloths

* Paper towels (white)

* Sponges (white or neutral colored)

* Caution: Colored sponges or paper towels can bleed dyes onto fabrics, making dye stains that may be difficult to remove.

Odor-reducing Agents

* Activated charcoal

* Calcium carbonate

* Soda